Approaching the Month Marker

I’m approaching the one-month mark in India though it seems like I’ve been here much longer. This country is alive with the beautiful kind of chaos that foolish explorer types like me really dig. It’s been the kind of place that doesn’t want to give anything up to me. In my time here, I’ve witnessed people who realize this same fact but refuse to do anything but try to combat it head on. To those people I have only one thing to say: knock it off. India doesn’t owe you a damn thing. It was here first.
The best way to go about gun-slinging with a country like this is to allow yourself to be swept along to wherever the dusty wind might take you.
My music study is going well here. I’ve had several sitar lessons and, in addition to study of classical and basic technique and theory, I’m beginning to understand how the sitar functions beyond just the rudimentary, but how its really meant to speak (sounds like I’m becoming a flower child, I know. I’m not. Promise… mostly). The bend, in particular, is the feature of the sitar’s voice that is intoxicating. Toe-curling glee, really.
In the next few weeks I’ll be heading to Varanasi to study tablas, a set of Indian drums. I’ve already paid for a professional set to be made for me at a really great price. Also, while in Varanasi, I’ll have the opportunity to bathe in the Ganges River. Now, aside from being the holiest river in Indian culture, the Ganges also boasts one of the dirtiest and most polluted bodies of water in the country. Students who bathed in it last semester on this same program contracted typhoid because of their expedition. What to do what to do… I did get a typhoid shot before I left the States but I hear that they are only about 60% effective. It’d be rolling the dice for a chance to partake in a sacred tradition. Obviously, I’m quite tempted and will likely decide in a moment while standing at the river’s banks. We’ll see what happens.
My homestay family continues to be a constant joy in my day. Uncle and Auntie are very kind, and our two host sisters, Ruchita and Ichita, are both sweet and have no problem sitting down with me for over an hour most nights to help me with Hindi homework. Also, having a rooftop terrace to myself and two roommates, well, there could be worse houses to be staying in.
Even in my first weeks here, I can already feel and notice the changes that India has brought me. I’m creatively energized in a way I haven’t ever been before and am excited at the prospect of traveling to Rishakesh to visit the Ashram that the Beatles went for their own spiritual retreat. No doubt some heavy vibes will be floating around.
Also, as part of an independent study project, I will be writing and recording a fusion album during my stay here. Details of it are still coming together so I won’t say more than it will be a combination of Western ambient/freak-folk and classical and folk Hindustani traditions.
That’s all for now. Below are a few of my favorite pictures from the first weeks. Until next time, I’ll be staying on my toes, right where India likes me.

Taj

words fail...

Shiva's Anniversary

Yesterday marked the anniversary between Lord Shiva and Parvarti, his wife. Temples around Delhi filled with worshippers to pay homage to the great god. A few friends and I visited one of the temples and the experience was chaotic and wonderful. Pushed through a sea of Hindus, we made offerings of fruit and marigolds to icons of Shiva. While inside the temple, a man tied red string around our wrists, a symbol of good fortune.
After being pushed and shoved by the crowd we finally made it outside and headed over to the Lotus Temple, a Ba’hai temple that was erected as a place of worship, prayer, and meditation for all religions. Beautifully constructed with large lawns and pools in the surrounding grounds, the Lotus Temple was a welcome change from the madness of the previous temple.

After visiting the temple, we all decided to head downtown to see a concert of Sufi folk music. At this point, the night began to take a quick downward spiral. It took us thirty minutes to flag down a rickshaw that would even go to where we needed to be. After finally being dropped off at the concert, the rickshaw driver asked for a price that was double what he deserved. So, I decided to just pay him what he deserved, crumpling up bills in my hand and giving them to him as I walked away. He followed us all into a temple and demanded more money. We just wanted him to go away so we gave him an extra 10 rupees (which he clearly was disappointed at) but he did eventually leave. Once we finally arrived at the concert venue, which was supposed to have free admission, we discovered that we apparently needed passes to get in (which were themselves free). Lacking a pass, we were able to get in by offering the gate guard 100 rupees a piece (a ridiculous price… comes to about $2.50… but for India it’s a stiff charge). The concert was, unfortunately, very forgettable. Disappointed at its conclusion, we found rickshaws to take us all back home which charged more exorbitant prices for the trip.
Sometime you get India, and sometimes India gets you. I’ll concede the night to India, but she should know that I, like Michael Scott, am not one to be truffled with.

Karma Kid

Turns out that there are some scheduling conflicts with the folk music excursion that was previously scheduled. So, that means that a new music based excursion was created in Varanasi, this time focusing on classical music of sitar, tables, and Indian flute. I’m going. Also, as a plus, I’ll get a chance to bathe in the Ganges River, a very holy and spiritual experience for Indians. Good thing I’ve kept my karma in order before coming to India. It’s coming back around.

Week One

Yesterday marked the end of my first week in India. The only three boys on the program, Darren, Austin, and I, have moved into our home stay where we will be living for the next eight weeks. Our “Uncle” and “Auntie” (as they are having us call them) are very kind and Uncle is quite the funnyman. Our Auntie is an amazing cook and has said she’s going to slowly add more spices into the food we eat over the semester so we can increase our tolerance for Indian spices food (we have such weak American stomachs apparently).
Yesterday, Darren and I went into the very center for Delhi. We visited the Rikhi Ram Music Shop, a very famous sitar dealer. After browsing through the store and trying out a few sitars I noticed some photographs on the wall. In 1966, the Beatles had visited this exact shop and purchased some sitars from these craftsmen. Pictures of Paul and George were on the wall with their arms around the owner and craftsmen. I am excited to purchase a sitar here in the coming weeks and know that the same hands that crafted an instrument for George will be the ones crafting one for me. Definite good vibes.





Now, today we are all meeting at the program center for lunch to share stories of what our home stays are like. After, the program directors will be taking us to a Bollywood film which, despite the fact I’ll be unable to understand the dialogue, will still be an interesting and funny excursion.

Hiccups and the Sublime

Today was our last day staying at the ashram (a spiritual center) and we are off to move in with our home stay families this afternoon. The only two other boys on the program and I are staying in the same house (something that is not usually done) and I’m excited at the prospect. I’ll post up pictures of our abode as soon as I’m able.
I hit a bit of a speed bump yesterday. The program offers several excursions to other cities with a focused subject of study. I was planning on going to on the “folk music, instrument and dance” study in Jailsamar. However, it was essentially a foot race to the bulletin board to sign up for the activities and I happened to not make it to the front in time in order to sign up. So, instead of folk music, I’m signed up for a study of miniature painting.
It is something difficult to think about that I traveled halfway around the world to study Indian music and then didn’t walk across a room fast enough in order to sign up for an opportunity to play music with other Indian musicians. I spoke to the program director about the possibility of increasing the maximum number of students from 6 to 7 for the folk music study. She was uninterested in helping me by making the effort to make an exception and then later, in front of the entire class, was rude and said something to the effect of “Ben is in a state of sorrow because he didn’t get organized fast enough to sign up so someone please take pity on him and switch places.” I stopped her and asked if, instead, I could make the announcement.
At any rate, it seems unlikely that anyone is going to want to switch out of the folk music study and I will be doing miniature painting. However, even more than the disappointment of not getting my first choice of activity, I was disheartened that the academic director was not only uninterested in making an effort for me, but was extremely rude to me in a public forum. The other students in the class have come to talk to me and agree that I did nothing wrong and was not “disorganized” as the director claimed. But, I’m not going to let this stop me. Despite her best efforts, the AD will not thwart my drive and desire to learn from and play with Indian musicians. Eat my shorts, Dr. Storm.
But, thankfully, with every cloud comes some silver lining. Yesterday I witnessed one of the most compelling and moving musical performances of my life. Two world class Indian musicians, playing tabla and sitar, gave a demonstration in our class today. Meeting for the first time that day (which we found out later) they played and improvised a raga. I will not be able to find the words to express the musical fusion I witnessed. It gave me a fever. And, I am elated that the sitar player will be my teacher for the semester. I will be learning at the hands of a true master. I really do feel blessed.
Orientation has ended and my “real” semester begins soon. Even with the rough patches of orientation, my excitement for the semester has not waned nor has my determination to learn from those gurus and masters that have much to teach me.

Shoppin' Spree

A bit of rare downtime in Delhi. Thus far orientation has been very fast paced and busy. The girls in the group have gone out shopping for Indian saris and other clothing. The boys are going out a bit later but elected to hang out a bit and play some ping pong before venturing out to get our own tailored formal wear.
We had our first exam in Hindi today which *ahem* could have gone slightly better. At least shows me I need to spend some more time really memorizing the script before I'll be able to read and write it effectively. However, the instructors are sympathetic to all of us for having a rough start and are confident we'll improve.
The next two days are just filled with anticipation of the homestay. We arrive on Sunday with our families which will begin the usual routine that I'll be getting used to. Quite ready to see my living situation. Still have yet to procure a sitar although I'm sure that once i have a "homebase" and fall into a routine I'll have more time to be able to skip out to the instrument sellers section of Delhi and pick up some new toys.

Very excited for what is to come.

Psychadelhi

I'm sitting in the program center and it's the beginning of the second full day in India. New Delhi is a sensory overload. The traffic is liquid chaos, the people are constantly on the move, and the heat and dust of the city permeates every shop and stall. I'm still getting acquainted with myself in this new, novel part of the world, but I'm pleased with the auspicious start I've had (feeding bananas to an elephant with a soundtrack provided by a live Indian wedding band). I can see why India has become a creative Mecca of sorts for artists of all mediums. I can feel already the grit and vibrance of this place beginning to affect my mind and spirit. More updates (and pictures!) to come within the next few days.